The selection of hair care products is huge, but how do I really get a grip on split ends, sagging curls or a dry scalp? STYLEBOOK made smart and asked experts how I can find the right shampoo for my needs.
Dyeing, blow-drying, combing, brushing, hairdressing – things that attack our hair and can even damage them in the long run, as well as factors such as environmental influences, stress and the wrong diet also play a role. Berlin hairdresser Michael Manthei and Munich dermatologist Dr. med. Timm Goluke clarify the correct use of shampoo and explain what to look for.
“Washing hair is all about cleaning,” says Weib Hair professional Manthei, intensive care and hair serums are indispensable for more extensive care needs. Nevertheless, with the appropriate care, you can steer the hair “in the right direction” while washing – and according to expert Manthei, you should definitely. “In some cases, it even makes sense to use different products for individual hair sections, i.e. at the roots and in the lengths and tips.”
1. Dry hair needs mild care
Anyone who tends to strawy, damaged hair is well served with a shampoo for dry hair – at least for the time being. It contains fewer surfactants, which are used as foaming agents in ordinary shampoos, but which dry out the hair. Instead, it cleans the hair in a milder way, for example with essences of coconut, and supplies it with lipid-replenishing substances. This better compensates for the lack of moisture and fat, which may be triggered by insufficient sebum production on the scalp and / or exacerbated by external factors (dry heating air, chlorinated water, colorations, etc.). “If your hair is extremely dry and shaggy, the right shampoo is not enough,” explains Michael Manthei. “You should use intensive cures instead of a simple hair rinse after washing.”
2. Tea tree oil soothes oily hair
If the sebaceous glands of the scalp are overactive, the hair can be greased – even just a few hours after washing. The sebum gland function is genetic and can be influenced by other factors (hormonal fluctuations, stress, etc.). Shampoos with an “astringent”, ie contracting effect, which reduce the sebum production of the hair roots are aimed at this problem; Herbal additives such as tea tree oil, lemon balm or rosemary soothe the scalp. Extreme cases of hardship are treated similarly to acne. “He can prescribe you isotretinoin for three months, which reduces the size of the sebaceous glands,” says Dr. med. Goluke.
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3. Curly hair needs silicones
The price for a curly splendor is usually broken tips and an overall rather fuzzy look. The reason: the hair “bounces” and therefore does not lie so much on the scalp, so it hardly comes into contact with the sebum produced there, which would make it supple. In addition, the cuticle layer likes to rub through the natural curvature of the hair . For a smooth surface and a beautiful curl, it is best to use a shampoo for damaged hair – the silicones contained fill up the cracked areas and ensure a certain weight and appropriate taming. Curly hair in particular should be treated with care. Rough rubbing dry with the towel or knotting together permanently damages the hair structure.
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4. Fine hair needs mild care
Every hair is covered with a lot of keratin flakes like a pine cone. If this keratin layer is absent by nature, then volume shampoos cannot fundamentally change anything. Thanks to their composition, however, they provide more grip and stability. “Volume shampoos make hair lighter,” explains expert Manthei. They also prevent static charging. Of course, fine hair can be brittle and damaged in the lengths and especially in the tips. On the other hand, appropriate care helps, even if it can have an aggravating effect. “Therefore, never give care to the roots,” advises Manthei, “please only distribute in the lengths and tips.” Would you like more volume, but unfortunately the hair lackluster and matt? Here, too, hairdresser Manthei knows the solution. “Use a volume shampoo at the base, so that the hair doesn’t lie flat on the head, and in lengths one for more shine.”
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5. Urea helps with dandruff
As a rule, dandruff is formed on the oily scalp, which sticks in the hair or unsightly on the shoulder, but sometimes it is also favored by yeasts. In this case, the common anti-dandruff shampoos reliably work, which often contain the corresponding active ingredients. Many people suffer from an extremely dry, sensitive scalp, which is virtually irritated by irritation. The common anti-dandruff shampoos, which are almost peeling-like, would only make the problem of dry dandruff worse. “Mild shampoos should be used here, preferably with urea or glycerin added, which calm the scalp instead of irritating it,” advises Dr. Goluke. Baby shampoos are also recommended. As soon as the dry or fat scales were treated accordingly, the problem should have improved considerably within one to two weeks. If this is not the case, it is advisable to go to a specialist. Because: “Sensitivity reactions on the scalp are often triggered by allergies,” says dermatologist Goluke.
Tip: Don’t be afraid of shampoos from the supermarket! They are not necessarily worse than the expensive ones from the specialist trade, the experts confirm – as long as you are excellent on the individual hair needs.