A healthy scalp and beautiful hair necessarily starts with a good shampoo. What if we helped you find (finally) yours?
With 174 million units sold each year in France, shampoo is the star of our bathroom. And for good reason, we wash our hair on average three times a week. In fact, for 76% of us, we stick to the same product for at least a year (Mintel Datas 2019 study). More than a gesture of hygiene, this washing is the first care that we offer to our hair. Hence the interest in choosing it well! And if, in the past, we have sometimes been disappointed, it may be the right time to change your habits, because the offer is diversifying and the new formulas no longer have anything to do with the previous ones. We take stock.
Assess your needs
But, by the way, what is the ideal shampoo? Margo Royer, brand business leader at Dop and Franck Provost, gives leads. ” Nutrition and repair for dry and damaged hair, and gentle cleansing without weighing it down for normal hair: we always expect a shampoo to wash the hair effectively while providing the necessary level of care and sensoriality. And more than half of consumers choose it based on their hair type. A doubt about their nature? ” The hair is rough and does not disentangle well: this means that it lacks water and requires washing products enriched with aloe vera, glycerin or hyaluronic acid, says Thomas Bailly, manager of the Jean-Marc Joubert Paris Mandar salon. As for the dull and brittle lengths with split ends, they require nutrition based on oils or vegetable butters. When you live in an urban environment or use a lot of styling products, your scalp can suffocate. The result is roots that regain quickly and a dull, dry fiber. The new reflex? Replace traditional surfactants (washing agents) by micelles, softer, which make it possible to space the washes. These particles of foaming agents are composed of a part that magnetizes impurities and dead cells, while the other eliminates them with the rinse water, without attacking the fibers. This is the technology chosen by 1919, a new brand that comes out this month in salons. ” With a formula rich in micelles containing less conditioning agents, we go back to basics by offering a good cleansing of the scalp and hair, explains Pierre-Emmanuel Dupouy, laboratory manager. On a detoxified site, the treatments that are then applied are more effective. Because, despite all the efforts made in this direction, a shampoo will never offer the same skincare performance as a mask or a conditioner. »
Decipher the formulas
Seven in ten French people are attentive to the composition of the hygiene and beauty products they buy (LinkQ RSE sent to two thousand panelists in January 2019) and 21% have used an application to scan them (LSA, September 2018). Something to shake up the labs, which have sought new washing formulas less aggressive for the hair and without controversial substances. At the top of the suspect ingredients, silicones, omnipresent in our shampoos since the 80s for their softening and disciplining effect, are accused of gradually suffocating the fiber. Another target: sulfates, more specifically sodium lauryl sulfate (LSS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), which provide a creamy foam, but are potentially irritating on the most sensitive skin. If Franck Provost took care to eliminate silicones without losing this famous ” natural touch “, Agathe Branche, scientific manager of the brand, however wishes to recall that” shampoos with sulphates and silicones remain in the majority on the market. The former have demonstrated their washing efficiency and the latter their cosmetic benefits in terms of smoothness and lightness. It’s all a matter of dosage and consumer preference! “In reality, we want to be natural, but we are a little” addicted »To the foam which forms on contact with water and gives an effcient washing impression. With this in mind, the Canadian group Deciem has developed a non-stripping foaming technology inspired by the textile industry in its new brand, Hif. Negatively charged anionic surfactants form an amplified foam, while cationic polymers are deposited on negatively charged hair to provide them with care active ingredients. The promise of these new “ hair conditioners “? The fractionated cleansing particles bind exclusively to the dirt, without attacking the sebum, which protects the scalp and fibers.