As with any good facial treatment, your first step should be to cleanse the skin effectively. To remove makeup, look for a formula like Augustinus Bader Cream Cleansing Gel, or Comfort Zone’s sumptuous Sacred Nature Cleansing Balm for remove dirt from the face, and use a muslin cloth to wash it. Next, Ooi recommends using AHC Aqualuronic Cleanser for a double cleanse. ‘It’s very different from most foaming cleansers – it starts out foamy but adds a little water and has a very creamy texture, which means it doesn’t dry out your skin,’ he says. She advises looking for cleaners that, like this one, contain molecules of hyaluronic acid in several different sizes as they create water pathways through which subsequent active ingredients can successfully penetrate the skin.
If you thought toner was a thing of the past, think again. ‘Toning It’s a step that has been neglected in the UK for far too long, but in K-beauty it’s extremely important, ‘says Ooi. ‘After you’ve cleaned your face, the pH will change everywhere, especially in England where the water is dense. When the water is thick, it means that even the gentlest cleanser can be quite harsh on the skin. ‘ Toning helps balance the skin’s pH (it is naturally slightly acidic), which is important for a strong skin barrier.
The passing of toning it’s also an opportunity to hydrate while skin is still warm and pores open after cleansing. Look for ultra-hydrating toners, -avoid anything astringent or with alcohol-, with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, coconut water and vitamins, such as Elemis Superfood Kefir-Tea Mist. Ooi advocates adding a few drops to the palms of your hands, then patting and pressing them against the skin. ‘This will help ensure that all of the formula penetrates the skin, rather than sitting on top of it, evaporating and washing the water away from the skin. If you think about the pounding and pressing motion, you can imagine how the molecules will just roll into the pores. It’s very important’.
However, if you suffer from acneYour best bet is to apply it with a cotton ball, Ooi says, noting that acne areas indicate a sebum imbalance that needs to be remedied. Think of the skin as a series of fish scales – all the scales (or cells) must be aligned. However, if you have a scab, blemish or cystic spot, the scales are misaligned and water comes out and contamination and bacteria seep out. You should fill in those gaps with good, balancing products, like toner. ‘ Those with blemish-prone skin are especially likely to benefit from Medik8’s new Press & Glow Daily Exfoliating Toner, which is super smooth and helps maintain the surface of the skin. clean and healthy skin while hydrating, unlike some acid tonics that can leave the skin unprotected.
Emulsion? What is that? In the skin care, an emulsion is a light, semi-transparent lotion that deeply hydrates. “Sixty-five percent of our skin is water, the rest is oil,” says Ooi. ‘The emulsion step is for replenish lipids and fat of the skin’. While applying the toner, press the emulsion against the skin, not forgetting the neck, and look for formulas that contain hyaluronic acid, ceramides and botanical extracts. We love DHC’s Urumai Lotion and Origins Dr Andrew Weil Mega-Fungus Soothing Treatment Lotion.
Next, it’s serum time. The main criteria here is that you take care of your skin and its specific needs. Hydration is always key, so a good hyaluronic acid serum, like Elizabeth Arden’s Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules, will suit all skin types. Other great serums to try are Aurelia’s Probiotics CBD Super Serum to calm, balance and hydrate, and Volition Strawberry-C Brightening Serum to increase radiance.
Eye cream … for the face
While in Asia the concept of an eye cream for the face is now common and mainstream, here we are catching on. “Generally, eye creams contain more powerful ingredients, such as peptides, and they are not as concentrated in face creams,” says Ooi. “But these new hybrid products are designed to be used everywhere, to help smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.” L’Oréal’s new Revitalift Filler eye cream for the face is packed with hyaluronic acid and works to plump, plump up fine lines and hydrate, while AHC Eye Cream for the face is packed with vitamins and peptides to firm and nourish.
‘The eyes are a place where massage can really help. We look at our phones and sit in front of the computer for a long time every day, and our muscles around them can’t relax, even if you tell them to relax, they can’t. That’s why bags under the eyes and lines between the eyebrows appear, ‘he says. For a simple DIY massage, try to press down with your thumb on the inner tip of both eyebrows to release tension, then pinch along the eyebrows. Next, use your fingertips to gently circle the eye, moving along the cheekbones to the inner corners. Make sure you don’t drag the skin and finish by pressing down on the temples.
He last step of your routine It is designed to seal in all the products you have used and to awaken and energize your face. ‘At this point, you want do a vigorous massage to help your skin face the day, ‘says Ooi. ‘Loosen your wrists and simply pat around your face. The jaw muscles are often tight, so remove that tension; use your knuckles to knead it. ‘ After applying your moisturizer, take your first two knuckles on either side of your jaw line and bring them toward your ear, working on areas of tension. Shiseido’s Enmei Ultimate Renewing Cream is excellent for this and, although it is expensive, it has been clinically shown to renews and energizes the skin. Kiehl’s Super Multi-Corrective Cream is another excellent cream that works well on all skin types, helping to increase elasticity and even the skin tone.
This article was originally published in British Vogue, vogue.co.uk